Hi everyone. You're still here huh? I must admit that I don't have this blog thing down yet and I think this is kind of a bad rambling mess...but hopefully it will get better in time.
Well alot has happened in the last week but I'm probably not going to talk about it all because I'm lazy. Maybe tomorrow I'll finish the story. For now I think I'll just focus on my recent trip to Candelaria.
Our trip started out pretty interesting to say the least. We were orignally supposed to take a bus from Managua to Teustepe, the capital of the municipality in which Candelaria is located. From there we planned on switch buses to get to Candelaria. Due to some logistical errors however, mainly me not knowing what was going on and Calvin not paying attention because he was trying to get my bouncy ball out of the drainage ditch without contracting some deadlly disease, we missed out bus to Teustepe. We later caught another bus but by the time we got to Teustepe the only bus to Candelaria had already departed. Fully prepared for a 4-5 hour hike we instead were lucky enough to stumble across a Lechera (milk man) who was driving past Candelaria. For 50 cents each we hopped in the back with 4 other Nicas (plus one picked up along the way) and proceeded on an hour and a half ride on one of the worst roads I've every experiened (this was two weeks after the government did MAJOR work to fix it up). Needless to say it was fun.
As for Candelaria itself, I don't think any amount of words or pictures can adequately describe the life these people live. It is simply something that you have to experience. I'm not an accomplished traveler by any means but I have visited over 10 countries in Europe and several Latin American one's at that. All I can say is that in all my life this is the only time I have every experienced culture shock in any form. It is a way of living I couldn't have prepared myself for. Image turning the clock back a couple hundred years (minus a few modern gadgets like radios and semi-normal clothes
). The houses are all made of mud/adobe/rock and usually consist of a 15x15 living room and 5x10 kitchen and a 10x10 bedroom for the entire family. Among the residents of the house are any chickens, pigs, dogs, etc which feel the urge to walk in. Laundry is done daily on a rock located somewhere in the yard and a shower consisted of going around to the side of the house and pouring a bucket of water on your head.
It's a hard life, there's no denying that. The family gets up before dawn and the men head to the fields while the women begin there daily chores of cooking, cleaning, laundry and watching the kids. Cooking is done on an indoor wood stove which means the women must breath in most of the smoke produced by the fire. The men are usually gone until nearly dusk working in their fields of corn and beans, often for over 10 hours. Candelaria is one of the first towns in the city to get electricity which means they can afford to have 1-2 flourescent bulbs to light their home. Refrigeration or any other more power consuming process is out of the question. By 8 or 9 pm we were getting ready for bed so we could be up by 4. Their lives are definately still controlled by the movement of the sun.
Nonetheless, the people are very happy and welcoming. The simplicity of their lives relieves them of the stresses so often associated with our "progress." So long as there is enough food and they are healthy, they really are content with their situation. In fact everyone I talked too would not change their place in life in order to move to a large and "dangerous" city. They welcome the advantages of technology so long as it does not fundamentally change the lives they lead or the safety and security they feel in their community. While I believe they appreciate the work we do I no longer in any way feel that I am saving anyone. Instead it is a simple exchange of services. In return for pumps and electricity they will bestow upon me a model of simplicity and connection to the earth and to eachother. A perspective when I feel that life is too busy, too hard or too stressful.
My family for my stay was a riot. The father Apolonio, and his wife La María, are very patient, welcoming and fun people. Which is good because they have to handle 5 little ones ranging from 3 to 15 years old. At this point I must thank Calvin for retrieving my bouncy ball. That and family pictures were all that got me through the first night when my spanish was literally non existent and I was in complete shock of the world I had entered. By the end of my 4 days though I felt like I had 5 little brothers and sisters and I can't wait to see them again. Thankfully though I will be moving into a new house, with my own sleeping space, as their living room wasn't the most convenient place for any of us.
Finally, we did manage to get some work done, believe it or not, as we finished Asofénix's first every biogas digestor, capable (we hope) or producing enough methane gas for cooking through the digestion of cow mierda. Afterwhich the mierda is steralized and can be used to fertilize fields or gardens. We also conducted a survey in the nearby town of Sonzapote of 50 houses on their use of water and general health, this will allow us to determine the impact of the solar water pump we will be installing in the village this fall.
Wow. That's a lot of words. And I really feel like I left a lot out. Hopefully it's not too boring and I'll post pictures tomorrow to spice it up.
Saludos,
Dave