Managua

I'm beginning to settle into my life in Managua and at intervals I'm finding it both exciting and interesting or extraordinarily frustrating.  My initial thoughts and insights on Managua (if you remember my first post) were about as far off as I could have been.  Yes, the city is extremely poor and life can be very hard for many people.  But I now no longer feel the sense of urgency or frantic commotion I thought existed in, what I now realize, were my exhausted first hours here.  Instead, the city seems to go about its business with a refreshing efficiency of people determined to work and flourish in whatever little nook they've decided to live.  There definitely isn't the luxury and excess that I've become accustomed to back home but isn't really so bad, and the more I get comfortable here the more I realize it isn't necessary.  In someways not having it is a blessing in disguise.  The simple fact is, and I know it's horrible cliche, but simple can often be better.  

The people here are a case in point.  They don't have the luxuries we enjoy and most work harder than any of us can imagine, but nonetheless are very sincere and happy.  They don't share our wealth but also don't share our stupid stresses and worries.  Think about it this way, you wouldn't really give a shit when you got cutoff in traffic if you're just thankful to actually have car.  And saving for retirement worries?  Don't make enough to save and life's a breeze.  Too simple I know, and I also know that the people here have a lot to worry about, but the fact is they worry about what matters.  Who really cares if their plates match their bowls?  The result is a very friendly and open culture.  I get the gringo stare alot but it's not hostile, mainly curious, and I've found a simple hello is often returned with surprising gusto.

The country seems to be doing a lot of improving as well.  This is not an endorsement of any political party, I'll save a discussion of that for later, but roads are being paved, schools built and grids extended all over the country, especially in areas outside of Managua.  Tourism is also starting to increase, as I noticed when I visited the Isla de Ometepe (now in the running as one of the natural wonders of the world).

At the same time this place can be really frusterating.  The lack of organized industry, city planning or even addresses has made it just about impossible for a stranger in the city to get anything done.  What I could have accomplished in a day back home has taken us several weeks and counting.  Take the wind turbine project Calvin and I are working on.  This project consists of simply PVC piping, a saw blade, some screws, scrap metal and a generator, all of which could have been acquired in a day at home for less that $100.  But here the process involves going from one town market or street side shop to the next, digging through old junk, pointlessly trying to explain the difference between DC and AC and often banging our heads against the wall.  The only way we can actually get things accomplished is when Jaime, our Nicaraguan director, personally guides us through the 2 foot wide corridors in the maze of Mercado Oriental, the largest indoor market in central america.  Or when he randomly pulls over on the side of the road to have what turns out to be a makeshift auto mechanic weld our hub and cut us a tower base.  It's frustrating and debilitating to feel completely helpless and a little worthless.  I know this will pass as I become accustomed to the city and more comfortable with the language but for now it's rather irritating.

All in all though things are going well and I'm really starting to enjoy myself.  Our projects are making ssllllooooowwwwww but still steady progress and hopefully will come to fruition.